Our History - Part 2
Edible Pine Nuts for Northern Climates
Our original planting of nut pines were from seed obtained from Europe, and Asia. Specifically from the Countries of Denmark, Sweden, Russia (Formerly USSR), Mongolia, Eastern Siberia, and North Korea. We had picked these countries because we were looking for the hardiest of the nut pines to grow here. The seeds obtained were from areas classified as Zones 1 and 2.
STARTING IN 1975, we corresponded with many individuals, experiment stations, and arboreta about obtaining seeds of a number of nut pine species. Over the next five years we obtained seeds from these sources in volumes ranging from a few ounces to 15 pounds. They were locally collected from individual trees growing in their natural terrain, mostly from the highest altitudes, which exposed them to extreme weather conditions. Our original planting of nut pines were from seed obtained from Europe and Asia, specifically from Denmark, Sweden, Russia (formerly USSR), Mongolia, eastern Siberia, and North Korea, areas classified as plant hardiness zones 1 and 2. We picked these countries because we were looking for the hardiest nut pines to grow here.
Propagating nut pines
After we received the seeds we stored them very carefully at controlled temperatures and humidity. Several months before planting, we properly stratified the seeds. All edible nut pine seeds need only cold stratification, except Korean pine (Pinus koraiensis) and Siberian pine (P. sibirica), which require first warm and then cold stratification. Warm stratify seeds by mixing them with damp peat moss and storing the mix in a waterproof container such as a large freezer-type bag in a dark, temperature controlled location (68°-70°F) for 3 weeks. This ripens embryos that may be immature. Cold stratification consists of storing the seed and damp peat moss mix at a temperature between 33°-36°F until ready to plant. We normally plant the seeds in the first week of June.
We use three-foot wide seedbeds for planting. Start seedbed preparation in the fall the year before planting by working mycorrhizal inoculant into the soil so the germinating seedlings can use it immediately. In the spring, work the seedbed up to 8 inches (12 cm) deep, then rake aside approximately 1-1/2 inches (4 cm) of soil where you will plant the seeds. Add more inoculant to this removed soil while scattering the seed quite thickly, then cover with the freshly inoculated soil and water thorougly. Damping-off is seldom a problem because of the inoculant.
The three-foot wide seedbed accommodates a simple wooden cover to protect the seed and germinated seedlings from rodents and birds. We make a rectangular box with 1 inch (3 cm) thick unfinished pine 12 inches high and 4 feet wide by 12 feet long (30 cm x 1.3 m x 4 m). We place it over the seedbed burying it 3 inches (8 cm) deep in the soil-the 12 inch height protects seedlings for 2 years of growth. We run 2 X 2 inch spruce the length of the box, with two more crosswise for support and cover it with a 1/4 inch (5 mm) galvanized wire mesh. Simple handles enable us to remove and replace it for periodic weeding. This size lets us plant a large amount of seed each year, though anyone could make the same covering sized to their needs.
The need for mycorrhizas
Seeds planted the first week of June begin germinating in two weeks and continue for another two weeks, with a typical final germination of 85-90 percent. Partial shading for the next four weeks helps prevent the sun from burning the seedlings. After this you can remove the shading without damaging the seedlings. We weed the seedbed by hand because herbicides kill the mycorrhizal fungi. After the middle of August we allow weeds to grow to prevent frost-heaving of the very shallow-rooted seedlings.
Our first seedlings looked very healthy initially, but they did not grow. Soon some started to turn brown and a few died. The rest remained at the same height as when they germinated. We sought help from various sources but were surprised that no one in North America could advise us since few had tried to grow these two species. We then recalled some correspondence from a retired European chemist who had, as a hobby, grown some Korean pine. He had mentioned that adding a certain natural material to the soil before planting the seeds would help them. Though our seeds had already germinated, we immediately gathered this material, ground it to a fine dust and sprinkled it over the seedlings. After watering them very thoroughly we saw rapid results with the seedlings returning to their natural bluish color and putting on a rapid spurt of growth (approx. 1/8 inch) the first year. This was a start, but we knew that to bring this experiment to a successful conclusion, more work had to be done in this area.
Over the next seven years, we experimented with natural ingredients and by adding these to the original we were able to obtain growths from 10 -18 inches (25-45 cm) each year.
Upon further study, we found that all pine trees benefit from mycorrhizal fungi. Korean, Siberian, Swiss stone, Armand, and Siberian stone pine seeds will germinate, but the survival rate is very low to nil without inoculant. The inoculant basically produces hair-like fungi that attach to the feeder roots enabling the tree to absorb minerals and other essential elements from the soil. Over the next seven years we experimented with natural inoculants which, when added to the original inoculant, let us obtain growth of 10 to 18 inches each year. While developing our inoculants, we tried several from different regions of North America, but none worked in our area. These inoculants were adapted for these regions and worked where they were developed but failed in other regions. We have now developed inoculants that greatly help the edible nut pines grow at their maximum rate and produce cones and nuts at a much earlier age than had previously been reported. We also found that each species required different ingredients in their inoculum. Feedback based on other's observations, indicate that our inoculants work all across Canada, in the United States, and have helped trees grow faster in Europe, Asia, and other countries. We are sorry that we cannot describe the ingredients in these inoculants because we are patenting them.
From this start we now have developed inoculants that are essential, or will greatly help, all of the edible nut pines grow at maximum growth rate producing cones and nuts at a much earlier age then had previously been reported. Also we found that each species required different natural ingredients in their inoculum.
Up until now we hand harvest the cones. The cones are covered with a very sticky resin. One should wear gloves when harvesting the cones. The cones ripen in middle October to first week of November, and are easily recognized when they are ready for harvest. While maturing they are a medium green, but upon ripening they turn to a brown color. One can easily tell when they are ripe. Just grasp the cone and give it a light twist and if it is ripe it will separate from the tree.
The cones are air dried for 3 to 5 days. In this period the pitch or resin dires, but most importantly the cones open and by shaking it the nuts fall free from the cone. Some nuts need a little coaching but they are quite readily removed. As the harvest grows in size the cones will be easily dried in a kiln.
Our entire crop to date is sold from our farm. Once the general public learned that we had fresh pine nuts, we could not keep up with the demand. Each year we have a list, the first person contacting us, is of course at the top, and has first choice. After our supplies are depleted, we notify the remaining customers, and their names are put on next year’s list. We also set aside a good portion of the nut seeds for our own use in our nursery. We receive $15.00 per pound for eating purposes, and those that are sold as nut seeds to our mail-order customers we receive from $18.00 to $24.00 for planting purposes. The reason for the difference in prices is because nuts for seed require more care in their handling and storage.
We also have a demand for the cones; in fact, the cones are in as much of a demand as the pine nuts. The resin on the cones last for up to 3 years, even although it is dry, and the aroma is one of the most pleasant fragrances. We sell all our cones to craft stores for this reason. The demand is so high, that we have a waiting list up to 3 years for back orders.
A few years ago there was an article on edible nuts pines in a well known magazine distributed in North America and after the write up; we were overwhelmed by the request for nuts. We received orders or requests from large chain restaurants for up to 500 pounds of nuts in the shell every month. Unfortunately we had to decline because we could not meet these demands, nor will we be able to for several years.
As our harvest increases, it is our intention to invest in a cracking machine that will enable us to start selling the kernels, candied nuts, etc. Such machines are now available at a reasonable cost.
To date, we have not encountered at our location any pests, or diseases that have affected these trees. We carefully inspect the orchard at least once a week.
In our early experiments, we concentrated mostly on reproducing the pines by seed. We then tried several grafted seedlings in this trial period, and as time progressed realized that the grafting method was not profitable. We also grafted scions from our seedlings onto rootstocks of eastern white pine (Pinus strobus), which grew reasonably well, but at the production stage, they only produced filled nuts in 50-60 percent of the crop. We tried several grafted trees of other varieties, but the results were disappointing with stunted growth, graft failures, and so on.
In fact it was a step backwards. Some of the trees grew reasonably well, but at the production stage, they only produced a small percentage of filled nuts. We tried several other grafted trees of other varieties, but the results were so disappointing – e.g. stunted growth, graft failure, nuts not filling, etc.
We had, of course, tried these experiments because people suggested that this might eliminate the need for inoculants, but experiments proved that these trees do better on their own roots. Our seedlings were producing filled nuts between 90 and 95 percent, while those grafted on eastern white pine produced a lower percentage of filled nuts. Also, the first yields of nuts from our seedlings were at least one-third larger in size. We eagerly await the results of test trees planted from the second generation of seed, and in a few more years we'll see the character of seed they produce and the percentage of filled nuts
Before leaving the subject of grafting, we should mention that we have selected superior trees from our original planting based on cone production, filled nuts, and their ornamental value for landscaping. Several produced needles that are very bluish in colour ( similar to named cultivars of Colorado Blue Spruce) and they retain their colour all year. Others have produced cones on all lateral branches, rather than on the leader at a very early age, thus production on these trees is increased by 3 or 4 times then that of others.
We will be releasing these in the near future as named cultivars grafted onto Korean pine rootstock.
We have several acres planted out to orchards of many of the varieties of edible nut pines. To maximize the return per acre on these trees, it is best to plant the trees in rows twenty feet wide with spacing of 10 feet between trees in the row. By using this spacing, we have found that they produce the most return per acre, especially during their early producing age to obtain the most nuts. After they reach the age of between 20 to 25 years, they tend to start to crowd in the row. At this time we use a tree spade and remove every other tree to a new location. We are able to double the size of the orchard, and the trees moved in this manner will only lose one year’s production. Also this gives us the final spacing of twenty feet between the trees in the row of our orchard. The trees easily re-establish themselves, as they are shallow rooted. If the use of a tree spade is not feasible, then one would have to cull every other tree out of the row in the orchard to prevent overcrowding.
We use several methods to protect the trees and crop from rodents. After the seedlings are transferred from the nursery to line out seedlings, we apply in the fall treated mouse bait containing Zinc phosphide. This bait is coated with wax, and will protect the trees for one year from mice. Where rabbits and deer are a problem we recommend a tree guard.
Once the trees start producing cones and nuts, squirrels and chipmunks can be a problem. Although to date we have not had any problems with these pests, due to the fact that we have many owls, hawks, and other natural predators which keep these away from our trees. If there were a problems with squirrels, etc., we recommend a planting of another crop, (possibly hazelnuts or filberts) a good distance from the pines to attract there attention away from the pine nuts. Another option is to live trap these pests.
Listed below is a brief description of all the edible nut pines that we have experimented with. Some are in orchards; others are still in test plots. While others failed to survive our winters because of lack of hardiness (those in Zone 7a and up) the germination ranged between 80 to 95 percent. All have the potential as a commercial crop planting with the added benefit as an ornamental and for landscape settings.
